gourmaris

Berlin · Kreuzberg · Fine dining

Nobelhart & Schmutzig

Brutally local

Billy Wagner’s counter restaurant on Friedrichstraße serves only what grows, swims or grazes around Berlin: no lemons, no pepper, no olive oil. Micha Schäfer cooks a ten-course menu that changes with the fields, and the twenty-eight guests sit around the kitchen watching it happen. It is opinionated, political and one of the most original dinners in Europe.

Signature dish

Whatever the Brandenburg fields delivered this week, served in ten courses at the counter